nonlinear long waves

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• Dispersion (water waves) — This article is about dispersion of waves on a water surface. For other forms of dispersion, see Dispersion (disambiguation). In fluid dynamics, dispersion of water waves generally refers to frequency dispersion, which means that waves of… …   Wikipedia

• Boussinesq approximation (water waves) — In fluid dynamics, the Boussinesq approximation for water waves is an approximation valid for weakly non linear and fairly long waves. The approximation is named after Joseph Boussinesq, who first derived them in response to the observation by… …   Wikipedia

• List of nonlinear partial differential equations — In mathematics and physics, nonlinear partial differential equations are (as their name suggests) partial differential equations with nonlinear terms. They describe many different physical systems, ranging from gravitation to fluid dynamics, and… …   Wikipedia

• Cnoidal wave — US Army bombers flying over near periodic swell in shallow water, close to the Panama coast (1933). The sharp crests and very flat troughs are characteristic for cnoidal waves. In fluid dynamics, a cnoidal wave is a nonlinear and exact periodic… …   Wikipedia

• Soliton — In mathematics and physics, a soliton is a self reinforcing solitary wave (a wave packet or pulse) that maintains its shape while it travels at constant speed. Solitons are caused by a cancellation of nonlinear and dispersive effects in the… …   Wikipedia

• Korteweg–de Vries equation — In mathematics, the Korteweg–de Vries equation (KdV equation for short) is a mathematical model of waves on shallow water surfaces. It is particularly notable as the prototypical example of an exactly solvable model, that is, a non linear partial …   Wikipedia

• Ocean surface wave — Ocean surface waves are surface waves that occur on the free surface of the ocean. They usually result from wind, and are also referred to as wind waves. Some waves can travel thousands of miles before reaching land. They range in size from small …   Wikipedia

• Hilbert-Huang transform — The Hilbert Huang Transform (HHT) is a way to decompose a signal into so called intrinsic mode functions (IMF), and obtain instantaneous frequency data. It is designed to work well for data that are nonstationary and nonlinear. In contrast to… …   Wikipedia

• Wind wave — Ocean wave redirects here. For the film, see Ocean Waves (film). North Pacific storm waves as seen from the NOAA M/V Noble Star, Winter 1989 …   Wikipedia

• Martin David Kruskal — Born September 28, 1925(1925 09 28) New York City …   Wikipedia

• Ursell number — In fluid dynamics, the Ursell number indicates the nonlinearity of long gravity surface waves on a fluid layer. This dimensionless parameter is named after Fritz Ursell, who discussed its significance in 1953. [cite journal | first=F |… …   Wikipedia